Where can I access wiring diagrams for my Model A? Answer: You can find wiring diagrams for your Model A in various publications and resources. Here are some sources where you can typically find wiring diagrams: Model A Service Bulletins: The Model A Service Bulletins often include wiring diagrams and are a valuable resource for Model A owners. "How to Restore" Books: Many books on restoring Model A Fords include wiring diagrams as part of their content. MAFCA Clip Art Disk: In the early 1990s, MAFCA member Jim Parcelluzzi included wiring diagrams on the MAFCA Clip Art disk. You can find copies of these diagrams on the MAFCA website. Here are some specific diagrams available: 1928 Wiring Chart 1929-1931 Wiring without Cowl Lights 1929-1931 Wiring with Cowl Lights These resources should help you access the wiring diagrams you need for your Model A.

I recently acquired a 1929 coupe, and I'm facing an electrical issue. Initially, the horn and lights weren't working, but now I'm encountering a problem where I keep blowing fuses as soon as I insert a new one into the fuse protector circuit on top of the starter. I'm new to the Model A, and I'm struggling to find any information on troubleshooting the electrical system. Answer: Dealing with electrical issues can require some detective work. There are several potential sources of a short circuit that could be causing your fuse to blow. Here's a step-by-step approach to troubleshooting: Start by disconnecting the wiring harness from the bottom of the steering column and try a fuse. If it blows, this suggests an issue in the wiring between the steering column and the fuse protector circuit. Check the wiring at the firewall terminal box and behind your dash panel for any visible damage or frayed wires that could be causing a short. If the fuse doesn't blow when the steering column wiring is disconnected, start tracing each wire from where the wiring harness connects at the bottom of the steering column. Look for any frayed edges or areas where the wire insulation may be in contact with metal. Pay close attention to the ferrules that cover the headlight and horn wires, as these can be a source of shorts. Inspect inside your headlight buckets for any issues. If you have a metal tube with wires running from the generator to the terminal box on the firewall, examine it carefully for any damage or exposed wires. Unfortunately, there's no magic solution for electrical troubleshooting, but by systematically checking each part of the wiring and components, you should be able to identify and resolve the issue. Feel free to reach out with any updates or further questions. Good luck! - Lyle Meek, 1997 Technical Director

I'm preparing to install the wiring on my 1931 Victoria, and I'm looking for reference material that illustrates or describes how and where the wiring should be routed along the frame, including the placement of wire clips. Specifically, I want to know if the clips should be attached to the upper or lower edge of the frame rail, whether they go over or under the frame, and so on. This applies to the wiring from the light switch to the headlights, tail lights, and the stop light switch. While I have a schematic layout, I haven't been able to locate any drawings or photos showing the physical locations. Your guidance would be greatly appreciated. Answer: Here's a general guideline for routing and attaching wiring on your 1931 Victoria: Headlight Loom: From the light switch bulb, use a loom clip to secure the headlight loom to the bottom of the front-most hood bracket (the screw near the hood latch at the rear). This is documented in the Ford Service bulletins. The left headlight and horn loom should run under and behind the lower radiator to the shell bracket and exit through the shell grommet holes. The right headlight loom runs along the bottom of the radiator and attaches to the radiator using three bend-up tabs. These tabs were soldered to the top edge of the bottom radiator tank. Then, route these wires under and behind the lower radiator to the shell bracket. Tail Light Wires: The wires for the rear tail lights should go under and around the motor mounts. Then, route them along the bottom inside of the frame rail and secure them with a clip to the bottom frame rail. Continue routing through the center cross member, using three wire loom clips to attach the harness along the inside of the bottom frame rail. As the wires approach the rear cross member, guide them over the rear cross member to the frame's upper rear corner bracket where they should be fastened with a clip. Finally, route the wires to the fender light. This routing should help you properly secure and organize the wiring on your 1931 Victoria.

I'm considering adding a right-hand tail light with a turn signal for safety reasons to my 1928 Tudor Model A. The car currently has a drum tail light with a cast bracket attached to the rear body subframe. I'm looking for information regarding the location dimensions for the three holes on the right-hand side to mount the new RH bracket (Bratton's #19340). Additionally, I would appreciate any details on the clinch nuts required to install in the subframe rail. Answer: Unfortunately, I couldn't find any specific mounting instructions for a right-hand tail light. However, I have some general advice based on my experience. LH Tail Light Position: The mounting positions for the LH tail light can vary significantly from body to body and year to year of the Model A. If you have a LH tail light already mounted, I suggest carefully measuring its position from the rear of the car and replicating that position for the RH tail light. Remove the brackets before measuring to get accurate distances to the center of the holes. Measure twice and drill once to ensure precision. Clinch Nuts: Clinch nuts are used throughout the body to join and mount various components. There is a helpful illustrated article titled "Body Clinch-Nuts" in Volume 4, page 82 of the series of books "How to Restore Your Model A." If you don't have these books, you can order them from the MAFCA Store on the MAFCA Website at mafca.com . I hope this information helps with your installation. Good luck with your safety upgrade on your Model A Tudor! - David Bockman, 2016 MAFCA Technical Director, posted 03/07/16

I'm facing a challenging situation where the distributor in my 1928 Fordor's engine is firmly stuck in the head. Do you have any recommendations for safely removing a distributor that seems to be stubbornly stuck? Answer: The issue you're experiencing is likely due to condensation causing rust to form around the distributor hole in the head, effectively binding the distributor in place. Here's a recommended approach to safely remove a stubbornly stuck distributor: Spray PB Blast, a rust inhibitor, under the distributor to help penetrate the rust. Remove the set screw located on the right side of the head and spray more PB Blast into the set screw hole. Use a small cold chisel and exercise caution as you gently tap it under the distributor. Apply just enough pressure to attempt to raise the distributor. Avoid excessive force, as rushing this process can result in the base shaft housing breaking off and remaining in the head. Be patient as it may take several days of repeating this procedure to break the rust loose and allow the distributor to gradually rise up. Exercise caution to avoid any damage.

FAQs Archive - Fort Worth Model A Ford Club

Will a loose ball in the front wishbone at the transmission cause a shimmy?

Yes, this could be one of the issues causing a car to shimmy. A loose ball in the front wishbone can be one of the causes of front shimmy. The front-end caster (5 degrees) is dependent on the exact position of the front radius ball. Make sure you have all the correct pieces to mount the radius ball to the bottom of the fly-wheel housing.

beMORR-MAFCA2024-02-28T18:57:51-06:00

Right Side Tail Light on 1928 Tudor

My car has the drum tail light with the cast bracket attached to the rear body subframe, as it's a 1928 model. I'm looking for information about the dimensions and locations of the three holes on the right-hand side to mount the new RH bracket (Bratton's #19340).

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T19:22:39-06:00

Wiring Diagrams

In the early 1990s, MAFCA member Jim Parcelluzzi included wiring diagrams on the MAFCA Clip Art disk. You can find copies of these diagrams on the MAFCA website. Here are some specific diagrams available: 1928 Wiring Chart - 1929-1931 Wiring without Cowl Lights - 1929-1931 Wiring with Cowl Lights

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T19:15:21-06:00

Discharging When the Ignition Is Off

We own a 1930 Sport Coupe and a 1931 Pickup. Recently, the Coupe developed an issue with discharging when the ignition was off due to a hung cutout, which we replaced. However, we encountered a short circuit problem that caused the wiring harness to melt down from the starter to the ignition switch and amp gauge, almost resulting in a fire.

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T19:09:39-06:00

Shorts

I recently acquired a 1929 coupe, and I'm facing an electrical issue. Initially, the horn and lights weren't working, but now I'm encountering a problem where I keep blowing fuses as soon as I insert a new one into the fuse protector circuit on top of the starter.

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T19:01:20-06:00

Routing Wires

I'm preparing to install the wiring on my 1931 Victoria, and I'm looking for reference material that illustrates or describes how and where the wiring should be routed along the frame, including the placement of wire clips. Specifically, I want to know if the clips should be attached to the upper or lower edge of the frame rail, whether they go over or under the frame, and so on.

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T18:56:27-06:00

Routing Wires

I'm looking for information regarding the location dimensions for the three holes on the right-hand side to mount the new RH bracket (Bratton's #19340). Additionally, I would appreciate any details on the clinch nuts required to install in the subframe rail.

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T18:45:44-06:00

Horn Rewiring: Model A Sparton

I'm interested in rewiring a Model A Sparton Horn from 6 volts to 12 volts. Could you please provide guidance on the wire size and the number of turns required for this conversion?

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T18:27:15-06:00

Headlight Adjustments

Could you please direct me to a resource where I can find detailed instructions on how to adjust and focus the headlights or headlamps on my Model A?

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T18:21:27-06:00

Stuck Distributor

I'm facing a challenging situation where the distributor in my 1928 Fordor's engine is firmly stuck in the head. Do you have any recommendations for safely removing a distributor that seems to be stubbornly stuck?

beMORR-MAFCA2024-01-15T18:08:22-06:00

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